Monday 2 September 2013

Glimpse of A Summer: The Brocante in Hemingway’s Landscape

Udine - Friulian UdinSlovene VidemGerman Weiden and Latin Utinum - is a city and comune in northeastern Italy, in the middle of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region, located between the Adriatic Sea and the Alps (Alpi Carniche), less than 40 km from the Slovenian border. The city could be easily called “the Bastion of Central Europe” – not even for its location, but primarily for the multilingualism of the whole area. The beloved destination of Ernest Hemingway offers an insight into its historical proportions of the Papa Joseph I.’s era in which the thought of the Tower of Babylon was yet alive.

If you - after passing Udine towards Maniago - overcome a labyrinth of alleys of the last small town at the foot of the Dolomites, you might (when surmounted more or less 300 meters of height) encounter the oldest and the most minuscule village that can only be found on Google Maps. The village is called Frisanco and it is honoured to be the hometown of Roberto Magro - the great clown, director and tutor in an Italian new-circus school in Torino whose visage could be easily confused with Tolkien's Gollum. If you have already googled the Frisanco village, you can probably enumerate the five streets and the hotel in Via Roma... Do you have it? – Now, scroll your view about a centimeter southwest and a certain point in Via della Pace enters your pupil. This point indicates the virtual locus of Robert's birthplace; it is also the place where the festival Brocante was born.

Brocante is a festival of contemporary new-circus shows of artists from around-the-world universities of the new circus. Every year Roberto and his team invite a dozen of artistic groups to rejuvenate the five old streets (that you already know about) in Frisanco and three other villages in the heart of the Dolomites with their playful pageantry. Each night Roberto organizes several motion virtuosos to create a spectacle for the natives of the Usher-like houses and random wanderers of northern countries, sometimes in the square in the midst of flowing fountain, or in the courtyard of the old padre Giulio’s flat, or even below the clearing mountain peaks with fine trickles of the mountain waterfalls.

During the day - that actually begins around five o’clock in the afternoon after a whole-day riposo - you can visit various performances, each magnificent and each placed in one of those unique villages (relicts of former generations) within a radius of several kilometers on foot or by scooter. And when the dark of the night falls and even the oldest native couple appears on the square to see another fantastic show, the villages light up thousands of lamps. And each of them has its correlate in the sky so full of stars that Hemingway would have had to live at least twice as many years to write a poem for each of them – the stars glittering above the beauteous region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia.

- Josefína Formanová