My First Impressions of a Scottish Life

Moving to Scotland for two semesters sounded like a dream for me, since I have already lived in the UK before I thought moving northwards this time could only mean a better experience. Although arriving to Edinburgh felt like coming home, I can state surely having been there for three months already that this city has a lot of surprises.

Walking down the streets of the Scottish capital is always a guaranteed adventure. Certainly a physical one, since there is hardly one flat street so you always find yourself going down or uphill, or forced to take dozens of stairs appearing from nowhere. The city is build upon several layers and has a lot of secret passages that makes a map completely useless here, but this is what adds to its specific spookiness and creates a bewitching atmosphere. It is a place where the historical past and mystery are integrated into everyday life, therefore it is absolutely natural to meet a person in a black scary cloak in the afternoons, a tour guide for the ghost tours, as well as see a group of men walking in kilts. To be even more clichéd they usually happen to be bagpipe players and make most of the people hate this Scottish squeaking instrument after hearing it every single day. It is an amazingly diverse city having an old and new part with different architecture as well as people, moreover there isnature only a few steps away –Arthur’s Seat. While for some it is only an obstacle on their running day and for others it seems like an impossible challenge to climb it definitely offers a mesmerizing view. Not to mention all the parks and green parts of the city as well as an occasional trip to the seaside, being careful enough not be blown away by the strong wind.

However, going outside in Edinburgh requires a certain amount of preparation, since one has to be flexible to all the four seasons in one day. Everyone knows that the weather up north is predictably unpredictable throughout the whole year, but I have never expected to be soaked every day and to regard the sun as just as an old friend who you once knew but now who appears only occasionally. The weather is a very influential aspect of a Scottish life and especially for those who are not used to it; it makes me angry and even depressed on a daily basis but quite the opposite when there is some sunshine; but most importantly it just amazes me. The weather is the principal division between the people of Edinburgh; the tourists are cold and complaining all the time, whereas the locals are just indifferent to it. The contrast can be spotted at first glance and particularly in the winter time. Everyone who wears warm clothes, boots, a coat and definitely carries an umbrella is not from here, while those who wear t-shirts, sandals and use hoodie as a protection against the rain will definitely have a Scottish accent.

Before studying here I could not wait to hear this impressive accent all around me, however, after a few rather embarrassing encounters I have come to the realization that there are three stages of the Scottish accent: the first which sounds different than the standard but is enjoyable, the second when only few words can be recognized, and finally the third stage which can make the nonnatives’ lives miserable and does not even sound English anymore. To add to the confusion, during one day all the differentEnglish accents can be heard, since surprisingly most of the students in Edinburgh are actually from England and there are a lot of Americans, Canadians as well as Australians, not to mention the swarm of international students. Most of the foreigners just end up being confused how to address people or how to speak in general, since the Scottish accent is quite hard to comprehend and is regarded as rather amusing by all the others. However, it is definitely worth a try because the locals will appreciate it with a warm smile which always helps on a freezing day.

All in all it is a magical city, very Scottish and yet international which could even resemble a fantasy world with all its dark graveyards and tourist attractions. If you are adaptable to any kind of weather and to any kind of prices without getting a stomach ache when seeingtriple the usual, than there is no reason at all why Edinburgh should not be enjoyed to its very last drop – just like a dram of good old Scottish whisky.

Lucy Szemet

Le Mystère de La Rochelle

Some cities have such a strong effect on their visitors that after spending one day there you can describe the atmosphere with words, pictures, smell, sound or by feelings. Recently I had a great chance to spend a week in La Rochelle, a small French city on the Atlantic coast, but rather than coming home full of excitement and sensation the only word which still comes to my mind is confusion. I have failed to grasp its “typicality” simply because it is a city of mixed impressions. It is a magical place where you can feel like you are in Italy, England and naturally France at the same time.

Walking along the sea and discovering the heart of the city, “Le Vieux-Port” (Old Harbour), was what first established my Italian feeling of the place. The line of restaurants suffusing the port with the smell of seafood; the cafés and bars with chairs outside facing the passers-by and the storm of souvenir shops would have easily transferred me to the “birthplace of pasta” had it not been for the lack of crazy motorcycle drivers. Interestingly, it was a challenge to find a windowless wall in La Rochelle, similarly like in Italy; moreover, the white pallets and the glazing sun shining through it almost made you greet people with “Buongiorno!” Not to mention the old market, one of the main touristic attractions of the city, with all the temperament, joy and tasting; except this time the shouting was in French and instead of tomatoes there was cheese everywhere.

To continue in the light of established stereotypes, I am sure most of us connect the expression “feeling under the weather” with England, where this phrase is to be taken literally. La Rochelle certainly adopted England’s tricky ways of making people’s day miserable by proving that sunshine, storm, heavy rain do not rule each other out. Just because you wake up blinded by sunshine does not mean that at the moment you step out you do not find yourself in a horror movie setting with a storm and will be soaked in rain in a second. And if you think this would be enough punishment for one day, you get the wind. In conclusion, the weather here is a campaign for women not to wear make-up - it is simply pointless. All you need is an umbrella, lots of tissues and rather trousers than a dress, which can easily end up in your face while you are passing the street. But besides the general sea town resemblances with England, La Rochelle also includes an ancient and a modern part of the city, where the modern area mostly sums up the university. Therefore as well as in British student cities you get a swarm of young people, be careful in La Rochelle not to stand in their way when you see them running in the morning trying to catch their bus.

Most importantly, there is the unquestionable “Frenchness” saturating every corner of this town. First of all there are the evil fancy chocolate stores besides the numerous cosmetics or natural products shops, which make you stop even if you know you cannot afford it (but who can?). Then, stepping into even the smallest grocery store you discover the separate cheese regal that shouts: “You are in France!” right into your face. You find yourself in “the land of small talk” where a regular “Bonjour!” is not enough and you have to make a pointless ten minutes long conversation about anything. These conversations of course need to be accompanied by wine, so the city cannot function without a famous wine bar where you can drink heaven in a glass. Moreover, this small city has a museum of perfume flacons, which is almost as cliché as in fact finding randomly “le carrousel” in the middle of a square. Where else could you have it than in France?

Image credits: Lucia Szemetová

I am simply fascinated that even after walking the streets daily and accomplishing so much sightseeing I cannot formulate a coherent opinion about this city with clichés and yet different faces. If I had to give three advices for future visitors it would be: go to Cave de la Guignette (the wine bar), do not visit La Tour de la Chaîne without company (unless you do not mind being completely alone in a dark medieval tower) and be prepared for any kind of weather. However, whether to recommend visiting La Rochelle or not remains a mystery to me as well as its ambience, you simply have to try it for yourself!

-          Lucia Szemetová

La Vie en Rose

Do you know that feeling when you belong somewhere, where finally everything makes sense? Let’s start with a generalisation: Every single one of us dreams about a place where all our worries disappear and we feel simply happy. Like many artists, writers, musicians I found this “satisfaction” in Paris. So rather than giving a touristic description about this spectacular city, I have decided to talk about my impressions and experiences. Warning! My view is, nonetheless, as idealised as the main character’s perception in Midnight in Paris by Woody Allen, but equally understandable and loveable...

I have heard so many clichés about Paris, but I have never cared for them. I wanted to learn French intensely and experience the culture, and of course I chose to do that in the capital. Coming here alone for two weeks, however, was not at all easy at the beginning; I struggled with the language, I got lost all the time, I was tired and lonely. But then it hit me, the “it” being the magic! I was forced to use the language and it helped me to overcome my fear of talking with a hideous accent; even when I got lost I discovered a beautiful church or a hidden garden, and the loneliness soon disappeared too. Tiredness, though, stayed as my companion through the whole trip, sleeping was just something I had to sacrifice in order to get the most of my time being there. But to elaborate more on the loneliness, I am guessing that is no news for anyone that Paris is the most pinky-cheesy romantic city in the world you can possible imagine. Even sitting down on a regular bench encourages you to write sonnets. Since I have got back many people actually asked me if I have fallen in love, because I seem different. And in fact I did, I fell in love with Paris itself. Yes, no doubt this sounds as cheesy as a proposal on the Eiffel Tower (which I have seen), but it sums up my point. Surprisingly this is a place where it is allowed to be extremely sentimental and desperately romantic at the same time.

So rather than to sketch the magnificence of La Sainte-Chapelle, Le Louvre or the scary height of La Tour Eiffel, and besides expounding on the taste of les macarons, I feel compelled to talk about my impressions, because Paris is not about knowing it, but about feeling it. When you see it in the movies, on pictures you certainly think – “Wow this city is beautiful!” – except when you have no taste for architecture or art whatsoever. However, being there, walking along the Seine in the rain, hearing crazy musicians in the metro, smelling freshly made croissants on your way to school, staring for hours at masterpieces by artists such as Monet, Renoir, Da Vinci, Van Gogh, Picasso, that is when you get charmed for sure. The rush of happiness you get when you sit down at the La Fontaine des Medicis in Le Jardin du Luxembourg and nothing in the world can bother or disturb you. When you are walking at Montmartre in the sunshine, charming accordion players follow you and suddenly you find yourself in a happy-summer-art world on the most beautiful hill in Paris.

It is a city with so many different faces; the dangerous part in the very early hours and at night down in the metro, when the ones who follow you are not smiling musicians anymore. The romantic part essentially surrounds you everywhere, people are not afraid to give you a compliment or ask you out just like that on daily bases. Not to forget the artistic face, the room full of Les Nymphéas at the Musée de l'Orangerie, Mona Lisa smiling at you when you almost choke in the crowd of tourists, stepping into Musée d'Orsay’s hall full of marble perfections where I personally forgot that I am afraid of statues or that this place used to be a train station, the sun shining through mosaic windows dressing you up in crazy colours in Notre-Dame while there is classical music playing in the background. Glimpsing a black cat at the garden of Musée de Montmartre, where is actually a room made like the famous Chat Noir. Most importantly, Paris has its own French appearance; café goers sitting on one another, having delicious wine for dinner, overpricing everything terribly, being stylish even at home and the arrogant attitude of talking just in their heavenly sounding language which makes the weaker ones like me occasionally swoon.

It is a metropolis enormous and charming enough to have some allure to anybody. For me, Paris is like a freshly made croissant: the first bite is crunchy, but once you get to taste it properly it is divinely smooth and delicious. After you ate it, being covered in the crumbs, it is impossible to forget you enjoyed it. We all heard about it, it looks elegant, it tastes good, but it is essential to try it yourself. Paris has it all: the taste, the look, the smell, the sound, and finally, the feeling.

-          - Lucia Szemetová

"Look past the blinding light..."

You know that feeling when you plan something for months and months, you expect a spectacular experience and in the end it seems just like a brief moment?  This was the exact case of the Two Door Cinema Club concert at Lucerna Music Bar on the 26th of February. The ticket had been winking at me since September, my friends came to Prague for this special occasion... we were ready.

The long long queue in front of Lucerna certainly made the night seem promising, but also made us very anxious: what if it is going to be too crowded and we will not be able to enjoy it properly? As you know, Lucerna is not big at all, but it has the huge benefit of a certain cozy atmosphere. You feel it right away once you step in, disregarding the smoke and sweat, it makes you feel like you are the chosen one for whom the band is playing. Chosen or not chosen, the actual band kept us fans waiting for quite a long time, we were praying for the other bands to say the magic sentence: ”Okay, so this is our last song...” We were ready to sing, jump, dance and yet the satisfying sound of these Northern Irish musicians did not appear, the crowd was impatient.

But then the moment came and it was all like a routine for me. I knew which song they were going to start with, how the singer was going to be dressed like, the lights, the atmosphere – all was familiar and suiting. They are just one of those bands who do not surprise you with false tones or hyperactive behaviour. What had certainly changed, however, was that they had gained confidence since I had seen them last, but again, this could be just the benefit of having less fanatically staring eyes at them than at a major festival. Nevertheless, this small crowd had no intention to stand still. No, we danced through every song. Their most popular songs made some of the people go bananas - there was crowd-surfing, hitting, bouncing without stopping.

Yet as it is usually with good things, the blueish pleasing feeling created by the band, the comforting voice of the singer, the accords that make you dance no matter what disappeared eventually along with the adrenalin evoked by listening to what you love. Overall, even if it was not particularly a breath-taking, life-changing experience, it carved a hole into my heart and even though it was the third time I have seen them live, I am already looking for the fourth opportunity to “look past the blinding light...“

Review: Anna Karenina.

One of the most famous tragic love stories by Leo Tolstoy appears again on big screen. The well-known drama about a woman, who “broke the rules” has been presented in several plays and filmed four times. However, director Joe Wright with Tom Stoppard as a screenwriter enchant us with a new approach to this literary classic. Historical costumes, Dario Marianelli’s great flow of sound, starring the favorite Keira Knightley as the main character Anna Karenina are all recalling the typical features of the director, who already transformed novels like Pride and Prejudice and Atonement into movies. Like in his previous pieces Joe Wright puts a big emphasis on the perspective of each character while taking a picturesque path.

What makes the movie most memorable and discernible from other adaptations is the original setting of the whole complex story onto a stage. Not only does it create a theatrical atmosphere, but also symbolizes the behavior of the Russian aristocracy during the late 19th century. Firstly, their whole life was embraced by the social events mostly set in theatres and also it depicts the superficiality of the society at the time of the Empire. Some would think seeing a movie with only one setting could be boring, however, the director occasionally takes us to the “outside world,” therefore the scenes set in nature also mirror the escape from the urban emptiness, which is best depicted in the scene when Levin (Domhnall Gleeson) decides to say goodbye to this artificial world by opening the large gates to nature. This original setting also allows simplification of the vast number of places which appear throughout the novel, achieving a certain flow from scene to scene and yet managing to focus on the details. The feel of flux permeates the whole movie as it is arranged as a dance. The center scene – the dance of the “forbidden lovers” Anna (Keira Knightley) and Vronsky (Aaron Taylor-Johnson) –  reflects the whole noticeable choreography, meaning that every little word, every movement, and even the costumes have their own role, is present throughout the film not just in the dance scene. To the detailed composition adds, of course, the brilliance of the Academy winner composer Dario Marianelli’s music which leads us through the movie like a skilled and smooth dancing partner.

On the contrary, a perhaps more critical approach should be taken in evaluating the cast. Although, Joe Wright did not even consider anyone else for the main role besides Knightley, for most of the viewers the young actress is not suitable for such a complex anti-hero. Of course, though she looks beautiful in the costumes, the character of Anna illustrated in the novel is nowhere near to the skinny stature of hers. Having seen her in other Wright movies, Knightley presented the heroine in the same manner as she has her previous roles: Elizabeth Bennet (Pride and Prejudice) or Cecilia Tallis (Atonement). Also, her acting partner Aaron Taylor-Johnson’s performance of Vronsky was perhaps not acted in a way for which women would break their marriage. On the other side, Jude Law as Karenin mastered the model of a stiff “robot-like” husband, especially with his “knuckle cracking.” Because of the great age difference it was even harder to imagine the “sweeping everything away” kind of love between the main characters. Nevertheless, the other adaptations being focused more on the physical nature of their affection, Wright succeeded in making their relationship portrayed only by glimpses of each other and occasional touching, in other words made their love a dance – a passionate, but a tragic one.

Even if this version of Tolstoy’s masterpiece was not received very well by the audience I would certainly recommend it to the moviegoers who are interested in a new interpretation of the overused story, an interpretation focusing on hidden symbols rather than retelling the plot in a conventional form while not leaving anything out. If not for the curiosity of how can a horse-race be set in a theatre or for Dario Marianelli’s musical brilliance, then watch it just to get a glimpse of what is happening in Joe Wright’s head, a mind so worthy of attention.