Friday 6 September 2013

Welcome to Scotland/Fàilte gu Alba!

It was one of the boring spring afternoons when one begins to think about their plans for the summer holiday more intensively than on any other day. I can’t remember the exact time and place when it was said by my boyfriend, but the intention of the sentence was clear: “Láďa is going to visit Scotland with his travel agency this summer.” Firstly, I don´t believe that there is anybody who really doesn’t like travelling. Secondly, I don´t believe that there is anybody who would not want to go to this area, induced from the amount of enthusiastically expressed sounds of aaah’s and ohhh’s when I mentioned this destination. Thirdly, I study English, dude, so visiting English-speaking countries should be nothing but my daily bread and public duty. So from that moment on, we knew what we were going to do during the first sixteen days in August.

All over the world there are hundreds of travel agencies, offering you a smooth and comfortable way how to spend your holiday. All inclusive or just with breakfast, with everyday entertainment, near the sea, luxurious… Láďa´s Euthanasia (the name of the travel agency) is unique and nothing of this kind. He is a traveller - an important difference from the tourist! Mountains and wild nature belong to his main passions, so you can go with him for shorter weekend trips to the Alps or for longer trips to Iceland, north of Norway, Greenland, South America or Madeira. No people, no cities, no traces of civilisation, cooking with your supplies, sleeping in a tent, staying in harmony with the countryside, hiking with your backpack, in the rain, snow, frost or burning sun. This is exactly what I and my boyfriend longed for.

Do you need anything special when you want to survive in Scotland? Good waterproof boots, a waterproof jacket and anything else that can be waterproof. It rains a lot there; and if not, it drizzles or you can experience rain-showers. Here, the Sun lives in a different place! If you like your knees, buy hiking poles, they can help you a lot when crossing hundreds of marshes and moors... And when I say hundreds, I really mean hundreds. Have you heard about the midges? Not yet? Well, nothing can spoil your perfect experience from the historic castles, big lakes and beautiful countryside more than these little annoying insects! Before the rain, when there is no wind, in the morning and in the evening, thousands of them can spend their free time with you. Don´t bring any repellents or mosquito nets from the Czech Republic, they are useless. All you have to do is to buy an oil body spray Skin So Soft from Avon and the mosquito net made specially for the midges in Scotland (it has smaller holes) or a special spray called Smidge on the internet and pray that it would work. The Avon spray makes you laugh, right? Well, it has something among its ingredients that can repel these little bastards, more or less. And as a bonus, your skin will be smooth and hydrated during your stay there. Anyway, most of the time you are forced to stay at the beginning and ending of a day in your tent and I highly recommend long sleeves. Because if not, they (the midges, that is) can bite you in the flesh and you can be sure that although you may not like souvenirs, the photographs of the midges’ pinches definitely belong to something you are going to show to your relatives.

More useful tips: Do not call the Scottish “English” - you may really offend them. Forget your knowledge of English; you will not understand their language even if you succeeded in the Mr. Volín’s exam. They pronounce a consonant “r” really strongly and have a wide scale of different vocabulary. In case you do not understand them at all and get desperate, keep calm - they may speak Gaelic. This language is mainly in the Hebrids islands still vivid and you can often see there the names in both languages – on the islands, it’s Gaelic first. But most of all, enjoy the splendid varieties of countryside which is so different from its English neighbour!

Our two microbuses set off the journey on a late Friday afternoon and arrived at our first destination on Saturday evening - prepare that it can the long, long, long journey can take all day and night. But with backpacks and food for the 16 days, you have to pay a fee for the next luggage if you choose to travel by plane, so this a bus is the best choice. I entertained myself with the Lonely Planet guide of Scotland (the guys in the newsroom really know what they do!), in which there are plenty of useful information about the possible trips and adventures, but also recommended restaurants and hostels, history of Scotland, its culture, politics, economics, simply everything that one should know if they want to travel there. It is not possible to visit all of/in Scotland for the first time, so as you can see from the map below, we focused mainly on the islands and the West Highlands. West Highland Way is, by the way, one of the named and most famous and visited paths throughout Scotland. The best way is to lead your journey through Glasgow to the town of Fort William, which is a starting point to the Scottish mountains. Speaking of which, on the way there we went through the Glencoe valley. Does it ring a bell to you? Yes, exactly, the sadly famous Massacre of Glencoe on the 13th of February 1692, where thirty-eight MacDonalds from the  MacDonald of Glencoe clan were killed by the guests who had accepted their hospitality, on the grounds that the MacDonalds had not been prompt in pledging allegiance to the new monarchs, William and Mary – it was our first and not last meeting with the Scottish rich history. 
Other memories from the past are famous castles. Scotland without them wouldn’t be Scotland, so our first must-see place was Eilean Donan Castle - according to the guide and people, it is the most famous and beautiful one. Well, crowds of tourists and buses forced us to flee to the Isle of Skye. The largest and most northerly large island in the Inner Hebrides of Scotland radiate from a mountainous centre dominated by the Cuillins Hills (Picture below). 
Our first three-day hike took place there, the rocky slopes provided some of the most dramatic mountain sceneries in the country. Apart from that, we also experienced common Scottish weather - cloudy, windy and with the temperatures around 15 degrees Celsius, in comparison to the Czech Republic, which was hit by the heat at that time around 30 degrees and more! If you happen to be there, do not forget to taste local variety of beers from the Skye Brewery. From the Cuilins Hills we moved to the northernmost peninsula of the Isle of Skye, Trotternish, where we have been hiking for two days. It contains one of Skye's most famous landmarks: the Old Man of Storr, an isolated rocky pinnacle. 
The next aim of our journey was to discover also the Outer Hebrides and (to be more exact) Scalpay. This island, which‘s population is only around 300 people, is home to many Gaelic singers and psalm presenters. Then we travelled to Harris and Lewis, together forming the largest of the Outer Hebridean Islands. Why go there? To see the Blackhouse Museum, a village reconstruction of the traditional thatched houses peculiar to the Highlands and islands, to learn how the famous Harris Tweed is made at the Lewis Loom Centre in Stornoway on Lewis, experience the unique Callannish Standing Stones, which date back to around 3000 BC. We also reached the Great Bernera, being on the north-west coast of Lewis and linked to it by a road bridge, and also Butt of Lewis (don´t giggle, it is its real name!). It was a splendid combination of beaches, sea and mountains, and on the top of it all, having seen seals and dolphins in their natural habitat turned this area into one of my most favourite places in the world. Our last days in Scotland were spent in Glen Affric - the area south-west of the village of Cannich back in the Highland region of Scotland, some 15 miles (24 km) to the west of Loch Ness. It is often described as the most beautiful glen (valley) in Scotland, has milder weather and contains one of the largest ancient Caledonian pinewoods in Scotland as well as lochs, moorland and mountains.
We mostly slept near the loch (lake) or at least a stream, which was much clearer than in the Czech Republic - it was possible to drink water from it. Between the islands, we travelled by ferries. We saw hardly anybody on the islands and only little people in the highlands. And we enjoyed it a lot. A brief summary: Driving on the left is cool. Driving on the left on the British roundabouts is not so cool. Driving in miles can be sometimes confusing. Seals are friends, midges are enemies. The prices of food are rather good, at least lower than in Norway. And sorry, but I have no photo of me and the Scottish with a kilt and as you may know already, this is a must... So, see you next time in Scotland!

- Adéla Lavičková