Wednesday 22 April 2015

Interview with Alex Went

We carried out the interview in the courtyard of Prague College. With people passing in and out, sitting down on a nearby bench to smoke a cigarette or drink a cup of coffee, it sometimes felt like a live show. In short, the atmosphere was vivid, positive and good-humored, as we discussed architecture, photography and much more.

OVERTURE
First off, what were your BA and MA courses?
Both were in English literature.

Do you remember what your theses were on?
I did one thesis on the Second World War poet Keith Douglas and I did the other on Ezra Pound which wasn’t really successful.

How come?
(laughs) I was very lazy, didn’t do enough research.

Both were at the University of Cambridge?
Yes, I was at Cambridge a long time ago. I’m not telling you which class!

Since you graduated, you have done quite a lot of travelling and you have moved abroad to work. How come?
Well my first introduction to Prague was in 1991, I was teaching English at the time and we have bought one of the first ever secondary school visits to Prague from the UK to the new Czechoslovak Republic, as it then was. And it was love at first sight really, as it is with many people.

Did you know anything about the history of the country before you arrived?
Not really, no – but I know a lot more now!

It’s usually that when I ask people who came into the country in nineteen ninety something, this question, many say that their parents even today just are horrified that their kids are going to live or are living in a communist country.
I believe that there are many people who still believe that it’s called Czechoslovakia. I was told that until recently some staff at the American Embassy still had “Czechoslovakia” on their visit cards. I have to check though if this is true!

So currently you’re the head of the Communications Department here at Prague College. Before you were an editor at City Out Monaco and Head of Communications at the British Chamber of Commerce in the Czech Republic. Looking back, what have all these jobs given you?
Well, my background is in education and more recently in business and so the opportunity to combine both of those elements of my experience has come together very nicely in this work which involves a great deal of networking, particularly with businesses, all local, national and international. Being an institute of higher education, we are always looking for ways to develop our links for purpose of internships, projects and of course employment. And so one of the things we have been doing at Prague College was setting up an industry network which is intended to deepen and enrich our connections with all those companies.

And that’s going well I suppose?
It’s going very well and we’re looking to expand our numbers quite rapidly this year when it’s also our 10th anniversary.

·         ON ALCHEMY
When you came to Prague, did Alchemy already exist?
I believe it didn’t exist at that point, but it had been running and was well established when I came to live here permanently in the late 2000s.

You have volunteered to host it?
I’ve been doing it for just over a year now, together with my girlfriend Petra.

What is your goal as hosts?
We’re really looking to consolidate what we have at the moment in terms of both external speakers and of course a regular audience of readers. So there are no immediate plans to expand or diversify. We feel that the once-a-month format for Alchemy works well.

Where do you get the guest speakers from?
Really many of them come along by chance! We just happen to bump into people or on occasion we are written to by someone from abroad. For example this autumn we are having a lady from Australia coming in – she came across the website, as a lot of people do on the international reading circuit and offered her services. So we are very pleased to invite people from abroad. Generally speaking, Alchemy is an English-speaking event and so clearly Anglophone countries tend to provide the majority of our speakers but we do welcome other language speakers, including Czechs of course.

·         ON PRAGUE VITRUVIUS
You run a website dedicated to Prague architecture called Prague Vitruvius.
Yes, I do. I started it in 2011. Before that I had been running another blog - actually, let’s not call it a blog, I don’t like that word - photo journal, based on the suburb of Vršovice which is where I live. But it’s quite a small suburb so I sort of ran out of places to photograph and decided that I’d expand and indulge my interest in art history and architecture.

Did you ever think about studying history or architecture?
No, only in a coffee-table way; my principal love has always been literature.

Do you write all articles in P. V. yourself?
Yes, I go out and take the photos and usually on the same day when things are still fresh in my mind I come back home and do a couple of hours’ research on each building.

And you do online research or do you ask the locals?
Mostly online but I also use printed materials - I’ve got quite a nice collection now of written works on Prague architecture of different periods. Prague locals have a good understanding of their own architecture and sometimes I will talk to them to clarify one or two missing details.

So you do all the photographing, the editing, the writing… How long does the creation of one post take?
When I go out I’ll normally take about 100-200 photographs of maybe four or five buildings at once so I have a sort of pond to dip into at a later date. And as I say, research for one entry is a matter of maximum of two hours, mostly online.
The site is open to comments, though it has generated relatively little interaction. There’s a plan later this year to revitalize the website’s “look and feel”, as they say, so that may engage people a little bit more.

Wouldn’t it be a good idea to get interns?
No, God no! Definitely not, this is my own private hobby, it’s a way to get away from other people! 

And I was just about to ask if you view P. V. as an obligation or leisure, so I guess that’s answered!
No, but it’s a nice idea. What I am keen to do is to get more testimonials from institutions – for example the Pražská informační služba and Radio Prague have already made nice testimonial quotations about the site. My aim is to try and get some of the more conservational heritage groups to have a look at the site and recommend it. I’ve tried UNESCO but without much luck so far.

ON ARCHITECTURE AND PRAGUE
What is your original hometown?
I’m from a town called Stafford, right in the middle of England, just north of Birmingham. It’s a very beautiful and much underestimated county. People who live there rather like the fact that it’s perhaps not so much visited as other parts of the country and so it’s been able to be preserved in its rural beauty.

What’s the architecture like there, more countryside like, I presume?
The architecture I grew up with was pretty much vernacular – farm houses, small villages, that sort of thing. So of course to me anything as splendid as the streets of Vinohrady is like walking into a treasure box!

Would you say the face of Prague has changed since 1991?
Well of course, but I didn’t see it changing, as I was just coming here periodically for visits.

In the last 5 years then?
Well, going back to the architecture, there have been a few egregious projects for which I don’t understand how they got planning permission, really. I wouldn’t like to name particular ones, but we all know that there are buildings that are real eyesores now, along the riverbank in Prague – that gives it away. I for one am not a fan of Kaplický’s blob, the octopus. I really hope they don’t build that thing up at Letná, it’d be dreadful.

There was some talk about changing the location to somewhere else.
I’ve seen pictures of a miniature version of it that they’re used as a bus shelter in Brno and I think that that’s where it should stop. He did do the Selfridges building in Birmingham, which I quite like, but given that the rest of Birmingham is quite a hodge-podgef architectural styles, it kind of fits. In the context of the Prague skyline it would be a disaster.

By interest, have you heard about the project URBEX?
Not before this interview, but I have looked at their website. I definitely am interested in urban architecture – in fact I have a long-standing invitation that I haven’t yet taken up to photograph the ČKD works in Karlín - an old industrial compressor plant.  If I do more work in the future on industrial architecture, I am very open to getting in touch with URBEX.

How’s your Czech actually?
For somebody who has been living here for 5 years full time and been visiting for 20 years it’s completely hopeless, I think. People say I’ve got a decent accent – but restaurants are about my limit.

How would you describe the neighborhood you live in, Vršovice?
The part I live in, Staré Vršovice, it’s a little untouched gem, really.  It sounds odd to say, but to a certain extent it is a nice place to live because it feels lived in, like a sort of worn glove or an old sock. I like the fact that the pavements are broken. I don’t appreciate the dog shit, but I quite like the fact that things are not perfect. But I suspect like everywhere else that it will become a sort of haven for the next generation of people with money who want that ‘authentic experience’ of living in an older part of the city.

Do you have favorite places in Prague, ones than you would recommend?
These are my three V’s. I think everyone should go to Vyšehrad because it is kind of the spiritual center - I think nobody should visit Prague without going to the graves of Dvořák and Smetana, so that’s very important.
And then I think people should go to Vítkov, simply because it is not much visited, it’s got a great panoramic view and it’s the other end of Prague history – not only the Communist side of things, but everything really from the First World War. Originally the museum there was built as a memorial to the Czech Legionnaires – and that’s an interesting, often forgotten part of the history.
And then the third V is the Veletržní palace which I think is hopelessly under-visited - partly because of the National Gallery’s relatively poor recent administration and partly because of its location. I mean, it is one of the finest collections in Europe.

It has Mucha there now, right.
Yes, the Slav Epic is there, but it doesn’t belong to them, it’s just hosted there. But the actual, permanent collection at Veletržní palace is absolutely fantastic! I mean, at some points of Prague’s history, it was very well curated; they were buying really quality stuff. They got fabulous collections of Picassos that are just unrivalled. They got only one Van Gogh, but it is a bloody good Van Gogh, then they got that chap who went off to the South Sea isles…

Gauguin.
Gauguin. They’ve got only one Gauguin, but again, it is a bloody good Gauguin. I think it’s a great thing they’ve got going on there; it’s a really nice collection. But when you go there, the only people you see regularly are the old-school babičky who insist on following you around.

ON WRITING
You also write your own creative writing, mainly poetry.
Yes, yes. I’ve tried my hand at prose but I’m not very good at plotting out large scale narratives. Instead I try to concern myself with what one might call the glinting shards of observation and experience, since poetry is better suited to that. Most of my recent poems are published online – pragueleaves.blogspot.com. So if people want to read my stuff there, they can.

What are the poems based on?
Most of them are based on my experiences in this country as well as my own understanding of the politics and history of the country. But I usually take as my starting point something artistic, like a book I’ve read, a painting, a bit of architecture, whatever.

I looked at the web yesterday actually and it seemed that the most frequent themes were architecture and history.
Yes. What I try to do when constructing a poem is that I try to lead the reader in a particular direction that is often delimited by historical information and then to apply a modern or contemporary twist – a mobile phone here, an e-mail there, something that brings the reader sharply back into contemporary focus. That tends to be my strategy.

So you once said that music inspires you.
Yes, well I’m very keen on the baroque music of this region.

How come?
On my first visit in ‘91 I came across a small shop that doesn’t exist anymore that was playing CDs of a composer called Jan Dismas Zelenka. I think there were just 2 CDs available back in 1991 and since then along with me the rest of the world seems to have discovered this extraordinary composer. There are now, I don’t know, 60 or 70 CDs available and he has become, I suppose, one of the more well-known Bohemian composers.

What appeals to you about his work?
Well, again, he does something that I try to do in my own writing, which is just to apply an unexpected turn in a structure that you may be more familiar with. For example, he’ll construct a piece that builds in a particular way and then there’ll be a really unusual key change or modulation that just throws you completely - I rather like that.

Surprise, basically.
Yes, I like the element of surprise.

·         ON LITERATURE
In terms of literature, do you have a favorite period, as you do with music?
I do like Elizabethan writing and, like you, I enjoy the works of the metaphysical poets which is the closest one can come to the element of surprise and shock. But for me, the big areas of interest are really Shakespeare – the sonnets as well as the plays - the Romantics and some 20th century writing.

For example?
Very keen on The Great Gatsby, Heart of Darkness… Fitzgerald, Conrad… Trying to think of other writers who I am keen on… Evelyn Waugh, that’s a big influence. David Lodge…

DH Lawrence maybe?
I like travel writing actually – I like his books on the Etruscan tombs in Italy, called Etruscan Places.

Kerouac?
Not so much, I’m not much of a Beats fan. I’m not completely antipathetic to that, but I find that some people who come here to Prague tend to be readers of Kafka and Kerouac and not much else. It can become a little bit…

Limited?
Yes, but I think it’s more self-limiting, that sort of conversation. I’d much rather if people reached out and explored other literary arenas.

Is there a book or collection of poetry that you return to?
(Long pause) Well, not really – I mean, there are authors I return to and also materials that I should have read before but haven’t. Recently I read Tender is the Night for the first time, and some less well-known Virginia Woolf. Right now I’m reading Anna Karenina which again I should have read years ago and left it till now. It’s a bit of fun, isn’t it? (Smirks)

Have you read Everything is Illuminated by Jonathan Safran Foer? It’s a travel novel.
Oh yes. No, though I did come across another book by him, Extremely Loud and Incredibly Close, about the aftermath of 9/11. But I’m bit of an old fogey aren’t I, not keeping up with the new authors.

This book was published in 2002.
Still new, to me. But generally I think a lot of people in this fast-moving world could learn a lot by taking a break from the schedule and giving their time to others. That’s also one of the reasons why used to enjoy teaching Harper Lee’s To Kill a Mockingbird – one had to step out of one’s shoes and walk in someone else’s in order to understand them.

They have actually taken that book off the iGCSE reading list not too long ago.
Oh well, nothing surprises me these days.

·         CONCLUDING QUESTIONS
Where do you see Prague Vitruvius in a few years?
As I said to you before, I’d like it to get more attraction and more interest from big institutions. And then really, its expansion is solely dependent on my time - and the money to buy a new camera (contributions welcome!)  Seriously, I really value the ability that the internet gives to extend knowledge free of charge.

Alchemy?
I’d like to see that continue to be a harbor of creative arts in the expat community in Prague. It has had its competitors but at the same time it has the virtue of lasting longer than any of them. I think it is very important for people to have this regular meeting point. I especially like that concept of regularity.

Well, you say that Alchemy is an English writing platform – and yet some of the readers read their works that are written in French or Czech.
I’m extremely in favor of that. I think that the mystery of the word is so important, the mystery of sound, to our identity as human beings. Especially when that sound is so confusing to us, it produces a music that should inspire us to widen our own perceptions of what makes us human beings. You could say that was true of literature even in your own language that you don’t get or understand straight away – there’s the famous Eliot line that great poetry communicates before it is understood. Even though the writing is in French or any other language, there can still be a visceral level at which communication happens. I often think that people overlook the strategic importance of language in all its forms, whether in everyday gossip, business writing or formal literary discourse and to me, not only are all these three deeply connected, but people should never stop learning how to do it better. In that way, life is for me a little bit like going back to college – you learn every day to improve your communication skills.

And lastly, where do you see yourself in a few years?
Oh, I don’t know. My friends all joke about me talking about moving back to Scotland – whenever I mention my affection for the land of my ancestors, they choose to see it as a metaphor for my impending death. In a few years I will probably still be here. And in terms of my work, I’d like to continue communicating in all ways – but maybe for more money! (Laughs)

Anna Hupcejová

Links
Prague Vitruvius - http://www.praguestory.com/